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When things don’t go according to plan ….
After a wondrous 3 days in magical Venice, it was time to move on to our next destination – Vernazza on the Cinque Terre. It had been my dream to visit the Cinque Terre for many years – in fact after seeing a segment on Getaway about 4 years before, it was one of the must-see destinations for our trip.
Never heard of the Cinque Terre? It means 5 villages – Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Each of the villages features stunning, colourful buildings perched above the Ligurian Sea in Italy. There isn’t a direct route between Venice and the CT, so after doing some research, we decided to take the train from Venice to Milan, head south to Genoa and then along the Ligurian Coast to Vernazza.
The main reason we chose to go via Milan and Genoa, rather than the alternate routes, was because we could book in advance on the trains which take this route and the trains are the faster Frecciabianca trains, as opposed to regional or local trains.
After another sumptuous breakfast at our Venice hotel, we walked outside, leaving luxury behind, then reality struck. We had to negotiate two stepped bridges with our heavily-stuffed suitcases in two in order to reach the Palanca vaporetto (waterbus) station. This took us about 15 minutes, but we made it with enough time to buy a ticket and validate it before the boat arrived. We scrambled on board the crowded boat and struggled to find a place we could stand with our suitcases. As it was still early, the boat was full of locals commuting to work for the day – and they weren’t very impressed that we had suitcases. One man shoved past me mumbling something in Italian under his breath. Oh well!
We got off the vaporetto at Ferrovia, which adjoins the Santa Lucia Train Station, walked up to the main entrance and through onto the platform area. We had plenty of time, as our train didn’t leave for another half hour, but we had to find where to go, which can be challenging when you don’t speak Italian!
After about 10 minutes, we found the right platform and boarded the train. The steps up to the Italian trains are quite large and steep. Dragging heavy suitcases can be rather difficult – trust me. Thank goodness for The Bestie – it would’ve been a real struggle alone! We located our seats, stowed our luggage and sat down to enjoy a comfortable train ride to Milan. It’s great to get there quickly on the fast trains, but the downside is that the countryside whizzes by without an opportunity to take it all in. We did see a few local fisherman heading out for the day when we crossed the causeway from Venice to Mestre on the mainland.
Fishermen head out into the Venice lagoon
We arrived in Milan by 11.30, got off the train and went to find a panini for lunch, as we had 45 minutes until our train to the Cinque Terre. We had a bit of a look around the shops, then found the platform we needed and boarded our next train. The seats were face-to-face, which meant I was going backwards, but there was little choice. We discussed swapping part way through the journey if I was feeling unwell.
When the departure time passed and the train hadn’t moved, we started to wonder what was happening. About 15 minutes later, an announcement came over the loud speaker, “Questo treno subirà un ritardo 30 minuti.” We looked blankly at each other, wondering what the announcement was – we figured 30 minuti was 30 minutes. By the groaning and mumbling from fellow travellers, it seemed there was a delay.
A pleasant young man had seated himself next to The Bestie. He saw our confusion and chimed in, “The train is delayed for 30 minutes.” We thanked him for explaining that to us, and that started the conversation. His English was quite good, so we were able to talk for quite some time. He asked where we were going, and then told us Vernazza is very beautiful. He lived in Genoa and had been to see his girlfriend, who lives in Como, north of Milan. He asked where we were staying. We told him our B&B was called Maria Capellini Rooms, and the owner, Giacomo, was meeting us at the station.
About 45 minutes passed and another announcement came, “Ci scusiamo per il disagio, questo treno sarà ritardato uno ora.” Our new friend said they apologised for any inconvenience, the train was delayed for another hour. By this time we’d worked out the word ritardo or ritardato means delay!
Our scheduled 12.15 departure eventually became a 2pm departure. If we’d been on schedule, we should have been arriving at Monterosso station, on the Cinque Terre, at 2.55pm. There was no way we would be there by then, as the journey takes almost 3 hours. I tried to call Giacomo, but couldn’t get an answer. I decide it was best to text him to let him know of our delay.
Vernazza Harbour, Cinque Terre
Due to further delays along the way, by the time we reached Monterosso, it was 5.30pm. Monterosso is the largest of the five Cinque Terre villages, and the only one where the Frecciabanca trains stop. We needed to catch a local train for the 4 minute journey to our final destination, Vernazza. We quickly called Giacomo to apologise again for the delay and to let him know we would be on the next train to Vernazza.
I went to purchase the tickets while The Bestie minded the bags, as it was two flights of stairs down the platform and two more back up on the ticket office side. I asked the attendant for two tickets to Vernazza and also asked which platform and time the train was. She shoved the tickets through the window, curtly replying, “Plataforma three, nexta train!”
I rushed back down the stairs and up the set on the other side, as a train pulled into the station on platform 3. We dragged our luggage up the steep steps of the train carriage and stood in a corner, as we were getting off at the next station. There were compartments in the carriage, which didn’t seem right for a local train. Something felt a bit odd. Just then, a group of teenagers pushed past us, giggling and said, “La Spezia…”
I turned to the man beside me and said, “Parla Inglase?” Do you speak English? He replied, “Espanola, Espanola!” Great, the only person close enough to ask a question spoke Spanish only – no Inglase! If only I spoke Italian – or Spanish!!
Before we could make a move, the doors slammed closed, and as the train pulled out of the station, the announcer blurted, “Prossima fermata La Spezia,” – next stop La Spezia! OMFG – we were on the wrong train – a regional train bound for La Spezia, the next major town… and it was too late to do anything about it. The worst part was that we whizzed straight through the station at Vernazza! I felt like pulling the emergency brake.
We got to La Spezia about 20 minutes later, by which time I was on the verge of tears, as we weren’t sure whether we would be able to return to Vernazza that evening or not. It had been a very long day of travelling and we were both exhausted. We went to the ticket window and asked for the next train to Vernazza, which was in 30 minutes!
Just as I paid for the tickets, our phone rang. It was Giacomo. “Lyndalla, where you are?” I replied, “Oh Giacomo, I’m so sorry to keep you waiting. We are in La Spezia!”
Giacomo replied, “No no, you no go La Spezia, you come Vernazza,” to which I replied, “I’m trying!”
At least there was a monitor on La Spezia station, which indicated that this train was scheduled to stop at Vernazza. When the train arrived, just to be sure, I asked three different people if this was the train for Vernazza. One couple, who were Canadian, said, “We hope so, because we’re trying to get to Riomaggiore.” They had done the same thing as us, and got on the train to La Spezia instead of the local train for the five villages.
A rather large old Italian man with holes in his sweater and muddy Crocs on his feet overheard our conversation and approached us. “This treno, it stop Vernazza, Vernazza!” he exclaimed as he waved his arms about to emphasize the point. We thanked him and he shuffled off to the end of the carriage, where he sat in a corner and ate biscuits.
We chatted to the Canadian couple for a few minutes. It turned out they had only arrived that day – a great start to their Italian adventure!
By the time we finally arrived in Vernazza, it was after 7.00pm – and we were around 3 hours late. Giacomo greeted us warmly when we reached the bottom of the train station steps, there wasn’t a hint of annoyance. I was so relieved to see him. He gave me a hug and said, “Ah, Lyndall, nice-a to meet you.” I introduced The Bestie and he hugged her too.
I said, “We’re so very sorry to keep you waiting,” to which he replied, “No problema, I waita for you.” He said he’d had plenty of time to chat to his friends and have a couple of coffees. He then told us that one American couple went back and forth between Monterosso and La Spezia three times before making it to Vernazza! We felt a little better.
He guided us down the main street of the village, which is more like a laneway, as there are virtually no cars allowed here. We walked about 150-200 metres, past little shops selling souvenirs, fruit and vegetables, a deli, bakery, internet café and several restaurants. Some of the stores remain closed after a devastating flood came through the town in 2011, destroying everything in its path. Before long, we reached the harbour front and Giacomo guided us to the room where we would be staying for 3 nights. Maria Capellini Rooms is ranked Vernazza’s no. 1 place to stay on Trip Advisor. They only have two rooms, one on the harbour, where we stayed, and one located off the main square, up 50 stairs. I’m sure their rating is largely due to their wonderful hospitality.
Maria Capellini Rooms in Vernazza
The room was spotlessly clean, with whitewashed walls, an exposed brick arch feature, a dining table with two chairs, a little kitchenette and full bathroom. The decorating was traditional, we felt like we were staying at Nonna’s house. It was lovely and homely, with a delightful view of the pretty harbour.
The view from our room in Vernazza
We were so relieved just to be able to put our bags down and stop for a minute. We said we needed a drink, so Giacomo waited while we put our things away, then showed us where to find a bottle of wine and the best pizza in town.
Our pizza and red wine meal in Vernazza. Those are fresh pressed flowers under the glass top on the table. Maria freshens them every week or so with flowers from their garden up on the hillside above the village.
We ate, drank and laughed about our mixed up day of delays. We figured something would go wrong on our trip, and hoped that this was it.
The Besties Do Italy series details how Seize The Day Project’s Lyndall and her long time best friend ventured to Italy to celebrate a significant birthday – sans husbands and children. Shhh, don’t tell anyone they’ve gone!
Read more posts in this fascinating series here:
Positano, you stole a little piece of my heart
Exploring Lake Como: The Greenway Walk
Eternal Rome: I only just met you, but I think I love you
Some Enchanted Evening in Venice
Linking up with A Hole in My Shoe for #TheWeeklyPostcard
We loved Cinque Terra – it’s so pretty. Enjoy the walks. The travel on trains can be so stressful at times, especially when the language and customs amp up the degree of difficulty….
Hi Lydia – yes, the train travel can be a bit stressful, but luckily, this was the only problem we encountered. The Cinque Terre is just so beautiful, loved the walks too … I feel another blog post coming on 🙂
Quite a story. Glad you made it to your destination that day. It makes me think of the stressful moments I have went thru. At least, those moments have not deter me form enjoying my trips.
Thanks Ruth. It was a bit of a stressful day, but could have been a LOT worse. We were very lucky with our travel arrangements in general. You’re right – you can’t let it deter you from enjoying your trip!
While travelling is fun, it’s certainly not relaxing – as stories like this show! Glad you made it there in the end … 😉
Thanks Janet. We were fortunate that this was the biggest hiccup of our trip! 🙂
I loved the Cinque Terre! My parents recently went and had train troubles too, they had dinner in another town and were catching the 10pm train back to their room and it never arrived!!
Thanks for joining in #wednesdaywanderlust this week.
Ah yes Malinda, I’ve heard a few similar stories, especially about the night trains on Cinque Terre. That’s why I was worried about getting to Vernazza that evening. We were lucky though, this was the only major transport issue we had – other than the 2 hour flight delay on the way there. The most important thing is that it doesn’t interrupt your enjoyment of your trip.
I loved Cinque Terre! I could easily go back! I didn’t even get to see all the different villages because there just wasn’t enough time! Perhaps I’ll take my mom next May! #WanderlustWednesdays
Hi Lolo – Yes, Cinque Terre is just gorgeous. We would love to go back and stay longer. Most of the walks were closed when we were there, so it would be great to go back and do more than 1 🙂
Lyndall – what an enjoyable read! I’m so glad you found your way to Vernazza in the end. That wrong train when you were nearly there would have had me in tears I think! The photo’s are gorgeous! I would so love to go to Italy one day. 🙂
Thanks Min. Italy is the best! We plan to go back again in a few years time – can’t wait! Yes, I was nearly in tears with the whole wrong train thing, and poor Giacomo waiting for us in Vernazza, but my bestie talked me round – she’s very good at that. Had I been alone, I would have been hysterical!
What a great story! These stories are the stuff that memories are made of years and years later. I’m glad you made it in the end…as it looks like the most magic place to stay!
Thanks Fairlie. It was indeed a very magical place to stay. The journey gave us a story to tell when we arrived home, and made us very grateful that it was the only transport issue we encountered during our trip 🙂
Been there, done that. For me, it was accidentally hopping on the wrong train in Taiwan. We accidentally got on an express train that went directly to the capital and did not realize it until we too whizzed right through the station that was supposed to be our destination. It took us 4 extra hour to finally make it where we wanted to go, but now I am always very careful when getting on trains!
Yes, it’s so easy to get on the wrong train Jacqueline. We are both wiser for our experience!:-)
Haha, I laughed so much at “No no, you no go La Spezia, you come Vernazza”. I’m sure it was a super stressful day, but luckily you made it and the apartment was very lovely. And thanks to your story I’ve learned that I need to be very careful when I’ll plan a trip to Cinque Terre 🙂
Glad you enjoyed it Vlad… and YES, please be careful when catching trains on the Cinque Terre!:-)
Oh no!!!! I always have the same fear of taking the wrong train in Europe. I can somehow make-up some words in Italian or Spanish but French is the hardest for me. I’m glad your AirBNB host was cool about it. 🙂
Thanks so much for your comment. Getting on the wrong train is pretty easy – as my story demonstrates. Read it as a cautionary tale! 🙂
Oh … I know that feeling as the train pulls away from the station and you realise you’re not on the right train …
I went to Cinque Terre when I was inter-railing at 18. Absolutely loved it and would love to go back. We walked between the 5 towns … had breakfast in Riomaggiore, coffee in Manarola, lunch in Corniglia, afternoon snack in Vernazza …Amazing
Thanks for your lovely comment Sarah. Yes, Cinque Terre is amazing. We could only do one walk sadly, as the others were closed due to subsidence/landslides. I’d love to go back too 🙂
And that is what good stories and memorable travels are made of. You made the most of it and we got to enjoy your ‘experience’
Thanks Paula. Yes, it’s a good story to tell and a cautionary tale for those headed to the Cinque Terre. We were very fortunate that this was the only travel issue we had during our trip – and it wasn’t really THAT bad compared to a lot of other stories I’ve heard!
My boyfriend and I are going to Italy in November and I’m so glad I discovered your blog. Very nice detailed account of your trip to Cinque Terre! And I’m glad that you have quite a list of Italy trip articles; will certainly be devouring them in the next few days. 😉
Hi Liz, Wow, you’re off to Italy in November? Lucky you! There’s already a list of Italy articles, and many more to come. I spent nearly 4 years saving for, planning and researching our trip – it was to be the trip of a lifetime for us. But now we plan to go back, to see more of the stunning countrside, as a month just wasn’t long enough to see all that we wanted to see. If you like, subscribe on my home page, and you’ll get a weekly email with links to the articles. Ciao Ciao! 🙂
What a story! I’ll bet you’re laughing about it now, but I can just imagine how stressed you guys were at the time. Glad it all worked out in the end.
We’ve not made it to Cinque Terre yet. Having read your story I’ll be sure to check that I’m on the correct train!
Thanks for your comment Linda. Yes, we laugh about it now, but I was nearly in tears at the time. Don’t let the trains put you off though, Cinque Terre is a beautiful place to visit 🙂
Lucky the Italians always have good wine close by! Sounds like you needed that drink. I always freak that I am going to get on the wrong train, love that this had a happy ending and turned out to be a great story for you to tell 🙂
Aww thanks Sally. Yes, wine is essential. We were certainly happy to have a glass of it when we finally reached Vernazza. It does make a good story now, but we weren’t so impressed at the time! Cheers 😀
Cinque Terre was my FAVOURITE part of Italy when we travelled there on our honeymoon! We went there on a whim after someone recommended it to us, we didn’t even research it or book accommodation beforehand. As a result, we only spent one night there but I could have stayed a lot longer.
Your story had my nerves on end! It’s so stressful, and a little scary, at the time when something like that happens. But you know what, it always works out in the end, and you come away from it with a cool story to tell 😉
Thanks Mrs W. We were pleased it worked out in the end. Cinque Terre is certainly worth another visit – for more than one night next time. Cheers! 🙂
We spent a week there based in Levanto in July. Explored in detail the region from Bonasola all the way down to Portovenere. Fell in love with both Vernazza and Manarola. And the bike trails from Levanto to Bonasola through the long cool tunnels. Cinque Terre is indeed a very magical place!
Thanks for your comment Russ. It is most certainly a very beautiful part of the world.
Lyndall……Just booked a return to Tuscany for a week followed by Venice for a second week to include some day tripping up into the Dolomites into Austria for May 26 thru June 10, 2017. It is a replay of our 2007 25th anniversary trip being repeated on our 35th. Absolutely love Italy on every level, and will most definitely return to Cinque Terre.
Sounds wonderful Russ!